The first question almost everyone asks is: “All right, so how much does it cost?” And that’s entirely fair — nobody likes getting into something without a sense of the price. The catch is that there’s no single honest answer to that question, because there’s no such thing as “the” aluminium fence. So we won’t fob you off here with a made-up figure per metre that wouldn’t hold in your case anyway — instead we’ll explain what the price actually depends on, so you know where your money goes and where you can save without regret.
Once you understand what really makes the difference in price, two good things happen. First, you stop comparing apples with oranges — two quotes that look similar on paper but in fact offer completely different quality. Second, you can make a conscious choice about where to invest and where to economise, instead of blindly chasing the lowest figure that comes back to bite you later.

What the price depends on — five main factors
In practice, the cost of an aluminium fence comes down to five things, and each of them nudges the figure up or down. The first is the length of the fence — logically, more metres mean more material and more work. The second is height: a taller fence uses more material per metre and, if it’s a solid one, calls for a stronger structure. The third is the type of infill, and that’s where the differences are greatest — more on that in a moment. The fourth is the choice of colour and finish. The fifth is the installation conditions and the terrain, which can quietly shift the price and are rarely mentioned in “quick” quotes.
When someone asks for a price “per metre” without knowing a single one of these items, that figure is pure guesswork. A serious quote always starts from your specific details — how many metres, what height, what kind of infill, which colour and what the access is like. That’s exactly why we insist on a site visit: five minutes of measuring is worth more than an hour of guessing over the phone.
What’s important to understand is that each of these factors also carries a slice of quality. The point isn’t to make it as cheap as possible, but for every dinar you spend to make sense. A fence is something you look at and use for years; a saving of a couple of percent that leaves you with a wobbly or faded fence in three years isn’t a saving at all — it’s a deferred cost.
Type of infill and height — where the price moves the most
If there’s one item that affects the price most, it’s the type of infill. Vertical infill with wider spacing between the slats is usually the most economical — it uses less material and feels light and airy. As soon as you reduce the spacing for more privacy, more material goes in, so the price rises. Panel fences are more solid and need a stronger structure, so as a rule they cost more than plain vertical infill. Glass fences sit at the top, because safety glass and precise brackets carry their own cost — but they also give a look nothing else can.
Height works hand in hand with the infill. A low, decorative fence facing the street and a tall fence for full privacy facing a neighbour aren’t the same cost, even at the same length. That’s why it’s smart to match the height to the purpose of each side of the yard — lower where you want the house to be seen, higher where you need a screen. That gives you both a nicer result and a more sensible price, rather than raising the same, most expensive height everywhere.
A tip from experience: before you ask about price, think about what you really want from each side of the yard. For some people privacy matters on only one side, and the rest can be airy and cheaper. Once you know that, the quote becomes clearer too, and it’s easier to see where there’s room to save without sacrificing what genuinely matters to you.
Colour, finish and the “hidden” costs of installation
Colour affects the price less than the infill does, but the choice of finish can make a difference. Powder-coating in standard RAL shades is the usual choice and quite affordable; specific or special shades can lift the price slightly. Anodising, which gives a premium metallic sheen, is a higher investment — you choose it when the look is the priority. Neither is “automatically better”; you pick according to the impression you want.
What’s most often “forgotten” in quick quotes is the installation conditions. Is the ground flat or sloped? What’s the base like — concrete, soil, an existing wall? Is there an old fence to be taken down and hauled away? All of that is real work that costs money, and it’s only fair for it to be in the quote from the start, rather than “popping up” at the end. This is exactly where the nasty surprises hide with cheap offers: the price on paper is low, and then it doubles when it’s time to pay, because installation and preparatory work “weren’t included”.
So with any quote, look for it to be broken down item by item and to state clearly what’s included in the price. If a quote is one round figure with no explanation, be cautious — not because it’s necessarily bad, but because you don’t know exactly what you’re getting. An honest, detailed quote is a sign that a firm knows its trade and has nothing to hide.

How to save without losing quality
Saving is possible — but smart saving, the kind that doesn’t come back to charge you in a couple of years. First, match the height and infill to the purpose, as we said: don’t pay for full privacy where you don’t need it. Second, get the whole job done at once rather than piecemeal — when the fence is done as a complete job, the site visit, preparation and installation are paid for once, not over and over again.
Third, go for standard shades if you like them — anthracite grey, black, white and the like are both the most in demand and the most affordable, and they look excellent. Fourth, do the fence and the gate in the same job; when they’re made together, the logistics are simpler too. And fifth, don’t chase the lowest figure at any cost — look for the best value for money. The cheapest quote is often the most expensive in the long run, because the saving hides in thinner material, weaker anchoring or poorer paint — and those are exactly the things you don’t see on day one.
Where you should never economise is the structure and the anchoring. That’s the “backbone” of the fence; if it’s weak, everything else is beside the point, because the fence will wobble and warp. Save on the choice of colour, on height where it isn’t needed, on the type of infill — but not on what holds the fence upright.
Why aluminium pays off in the long run
When you compare quotes, it’s easy to look only at the starting price. But a fence isn’t a one-off expense — it lives with your house for decades, and the real question is how much it costs you across all those years. This is where aluminium shows its true value.
An iron fence may be cheaper at the start, but it rusts, so you repaint it every two or three years — and that’s money and time that add up. PVC fades and turns brittle. An aluminium fence with quality powder-coating doesn’t rust, doesn’t peel and needs no maintenance; you pay for it once and practically forget about it. When you spread the initial price plus maintenance over ten years, aluminium almost always turns out to be the most cost-effective choice.
So the next time you hear a price, don’t just ask “how much does it cost today”, but “how much does it cost me over ten years”. From that angle, a quality aluminium fence isn’t an expense — it’s an investment that pays you back through peace of mind and good looks. If you’d like an exact price for your own yard, with no guessing, ☎ call +381 62 384 667 or send an enquiry: we come out, measure up, and you get a clear, itemised quote with no obligation.
Frequently asked questions
How much does an aluminium fence cost per metre?
There’s no single figure, because the price depends on the height, the type of infill, the colour and the installation conditions. The most accurate way is for us to come out, measure up and give you a concrete quote for your case — free of charge and with no obligation.
Why do quotes differ so much?
Most often because they don’t offer the same quality: the differences are in the thickness of the material, the anchoring, the paint and whether installation is included. That’s why you should ask for a quote broken down item by item.
Which type of fence is the cheapest?
Usually vertical infill with wider spacing between the slats. Panel and glass fences cost more because they need more material and safety glass respectively.
Can I save by doing the fence and gate together?
Yes — when they’re done as a complete job, the site visit, preparation and installation aren’t paid for over and over, and the result is more coherent too.
Is the site visit free?
It is, and with no obligation. Without exact measurements there’s no honest quote, so it’s a normal part of the job for us.
Do darker colours cost more?
Standard RAL shades (including anthracite and black) are the most affordable. Specific or special shades can lift the price slightly.
What raises the price of a fence the most?
The type of infill and the height, followed by how demanding the terrain and installation are. Glass and solid, tall infill are the most expensive.
Is the cheapest quote worth it?
Rarely. The saving usually hides in thinner material or weaker anchoring, which you pay for within a few years. Look for the best value for money, not the lowest figure.
How long does an aluminium fence last?
Decades — it doesn’t rust and needs no maintenance, which is why we give a 20-year warranty. That’s why it’s more cost-effective in the long run than iron and PVC.
How do I get an exact price?
Call +381 62 384 667 or send an enquiry. We arrange a free site visit, measure up, and you get a clear, itemised quote — with no obligation and no hidden costs that “pop up” at the end.
Related topics
- Aluminium fences (everything about fences)
- Vertical fences — the most economical choice
- Panel fences and glass fences
- Powder-coating and RAL colours — what drives the cost of the finish
- Aluminium gates — save by doing it as a complete job